BTU per hour is the number every camp stove listing competes on, and it measures how fast the stove consumes fuel. It does not measure how fast your water boils, because outdoors almost all of your heat is lost to moving air before it reaches the pot.
A 22,000 BTU Coleman with proper wind guards will out-cook a 60,000 BTU open burner in any real breeze, every time. This is not a close call, and it is why the stove at the top of this list is not the one with the biggest number.
After wind protection, the second most useful specification is cooking area — whether two full-size pans actually fit. A lot of two-burner stoves have burners spaced for two small pots and no more.
Picking a stove
Wind protection is the whole ballgame
Look for wind guards that are tall enough to be useful and that fold in three sides. Where a stove has none, a homemade foil or aluminum screen placed around it — never touching the fuel line, and never fully enclosing a canister stove — makes a genuine difference.
Fuel: propane, butane or liquid
Propane works well in cold, is available everywhere, and comes in 1lb canisters or refillable 20lb tanks. Butane canisters are compact, clean and cheap, and perform badly below freezing. Liquid fuel works at any temperature and altitude and requires priming and maintenance. For car camping in North America, propane is the default and a 20lb tank plus an adapter hose is dramatically cheaper per meal than green 1lb canisters.
Measure your pans against the burner spacing
"Two-burner" does not guarantee two 10-inch pans fit side by side. Check the stated cooking surface dimensions against the pans you actually own before buying.
Simmer control matters more than maximum output
High-pressure burners are excellent at boiling large volumes and poor at anything delicate. If you cook eggs, buy for simmer range rather than for BTU.
Backpacking is a different question entirely
For a backpacking stove the calculation flips to weight and fuel efficiency — grams of canister gas per boil — and a two-burner propane stove is entirely the wrong tool. That is a separate purchase with separate rules.
How these were picked
I haven't handled these. Here's what I did instead.
Everyone in this category says they tested twenty of these. I haven't tested any, and I say so. What I do instead: read the manufacturer's manual and published specification, compile the numbers that decide the purchase, do the arithmetic in the open, check the live price, and name one product to skip. The scores above are judgments from that research against a published rubric — they are not measurements I took, because I do not have a lab and I am not going to pretend otherwise.